China May Relax Animal Testing for Cosmetics

Some animal rights activists are cautiously optimistic that China is moving toward relaxing its requirements for animal testing for several cosmetics categories. On January 1, China implemented updates to its 1990 Cosmetic Supervision and Administration Regulations. The changes allow qualifying countries to forgo animal testing on certain “general use” items like shampoo, blush, mascara, and perfume. Under the new regulations, companies that earn a certificate through quality-testing of cosmetic products and pass a product safety assessment, will no longer be required to conduct animal testing, nor will they be forced to sell products online only. France is the first company to successfully develop a process for issuing GMP certificates, and more European nations are expected to follow.

However, observers note that “special cosmetics,” which include products for children or with active claims like SPF, brightening or anti-wrinkle, will not be affected by the anticipated changes and still be required to undergo animal testing. And while the move represents real progess in the world's No. 2 beauty market, experts noted that plenty of questions still surround the proposals.

“There are still many unclear factors to how they will actually proceed with testing in China,” said William Lau, vice president of brands at Ushopal Group, a beauty distributor that partners with brands including Natura Bissé and Chantecaille in China. “From an overall impact perspective, it should still have a one-to-two-year gap…purely due to all the brands coming into the market.”

Despite the limitations, observers insist eliminating animal testing requirements for general use cosmetics could lead to a flurry of indie beauty entrants into China. Many indie brands have avoided the world's No. 2 beauty market because of animal testing requirements.